Buffalo Cragging, Round 2

Went to Buffalo Crag and had a pretty discouraging day, struggling with "easy" grades. This was my second time to Buffalo—though I've been to Rattlesnake once or twice and Bottle Glass once. However, this was my first time I was able to work from the guidebook. I'm still trying get my bearings as far as gradings go, but prior to this trip I know I've dispatched some 5.7s with no problem whatsoever.

First time to the crag with Steve.  He was able to send everything, excluding the fact that I don't think either of us did Reject Direct correctly.  (I'm pretty sure we both steered off route for the 5.8 crux move.)  I gave up on Fear of Flying and British F****ts.

We set the first top rope in an area West of the scramble near the railing.  It was above three routes I'd tried previously with Charles and company.  Veg was cake, but a good warmup.  This was my second time on R.D., but I don't think we did the correct route either time.  I think I'm a little oversized for Boa Constrictor, having had to climb outside the chimney in a key spot, but I was able to finish it this time.  It seemed harder, or at least more annoying, than 5.4.

For the second top rope, we hiked all the way to the end of Buffalo and scrambled down and walked back.  The guidebook says there's a "descent gully" at 50m, but we found it a bit ridiculous and untraveled, so we just scrambled back up the end again to set the rope.  Steve did FoF, with a whole lot of work, then B.F. came a lot easier to him.  I fell off FoF about the same number of times at Steve, but gave up on it and tried B.F.  After fumbling a few attempts on B.F., it was late in the day and I figured it was time to head home.  So, I just skipped over to Piece of Duff, which looked like a much easier line.  Sent with no problem, then hauled up the packs and belayed Steve from the top.  

1. Veg (5.2): Named for a prominent Ontario climber. Start at 115m. Climb the corners and dirty ledges to the top.
2. Reject Direct (5.8): Start 3m right of Boa Constrictor. Climb a shallow groove over a bulge leading to a short finger crack.
3. Boa Constrictor (5.4*): Start at 113m. Climb the squeeze chimney, and head right at the top.
4. Fear of Flying (5.8): Start at 40m. Work your way up to the roof.  Follow the thin crack to the easy groove.
5. British F****ts (5.5): Start at 41m. Climb the crack just right of Fear of Flying, follow the easy groove.
6. Piece of Duff (5.5*): Start at 44m.  Climb up to a clean corner, follow this to the roof, move left and get in the groove.

My Review of EMS Packable Pack

Originally submitted at Eastern Mountain Sports

Need an ultralight back-up backpack for emergencies? Stuffs down to the size of a grapefruit.

EMS Packable Pack

Mixed

By Adam from Buffalo, NY on 1/15/2012

 

3out of 5

Pros: Cinch cord, packable, Hydration bladder pocket, Lightweight, Water bottle pockets

Cons: Durability, No sternum strap

Best Uses: Climbing, Gym Bag, Carrying small loads

Good value. I use the pack for everday use, heading to the rock gym, for carrying a jacket while cross-country skiing, but not as a summit pack, etc. After a few months of moderate use, the top loop ripped off on mine and I'm definitely wishing it had a sternum strap. I'd look for a Marmot Kompressor on sale instead -- sternum strap, ice axe loops, compression straps, etc.

(legalese)

Holiday Valley - 1/7

Spent the early part of the day on Saturday at Holiday Valley (trail map), trying cross-country skiing for the first time.  It was a mess—40 degree temps for two plus days leading up—but good to get out.  Went out with the Buffalo Nordic Ski Club and ADK-NFC, with a potluck after.

We took the lift from the Tannenbaum lodge up to the top of mountain and skied west through a pretty muddy patch of the cross-country trail (which was technically closed), after having a false start down the Tannenbaum slope.  (A little scary for a guy who's never skied at all.)  We then met up with the rest of our group who had skied up the mountain, went around Spruce Lake and then headed off a back snowmobile where there was much better snow.

Except for the more rutty snowmobile ruts.  Several wipe-outs later, I'd gotten a world better and had hotspots on my feet to testify to the learning curve.

Anyway, what a slow winter.  Thinking snow. . . .